i think its Calzatta but not sure and my spanish is terrible. I know Paella and cervesa (cant spell it right) and gracious and si and uno but that's about it. i learned cafe leche this morning which is like a latte. Oh well. i learn more as i go. my write up is below no pics today as camera is giving me hell as usual. i am working on some video but have no sound. I plan to clip a few videos together when i have a few hours of down time.
June 9, 2017
I stayed in the village of los arcos last night after getting caught in a rain storm, I literally saw it coming and stopped at the next village. It was wild watching the dark clouds way off in the distance and seeing the lightning and thunder from literally 40 miles away. I pulled into the first pension I could find and got the last room. The alberge was full and hikers were rushing in to get whatever space was available. I had a hot shower and internet so I was happy.
I made a few stops yesterday I forgot mention. The fountain at Irache which was so so wine but the real stuff they sell apparently is great. I love the water fountains in every village. It is made available to the pilgrims and it is good water. Even small fountains on the side of the road are decent. You see random run down looking buildings that say “bar” and you walk in and it is a clean nice place to get a drink.
This morning I left town knowing I needed to get some miles in if I am going to make Leon by Sunday. Joe is joining me from Leon to Santiago. I left with 288km to go to Leon which is about 175 miles. With a loaded bike that is a really hard goal to hit. 50 miles takes about 5-6 hours when you have 45 pounds of weight on the bike. The hills are pretty difficult and the really steep ones become a situation where you just walk the bike to get over the top or stop and get your breath. I keep catching these 6-8 percent grade hills that go for 3-6km. Not very fun with loaded bike.
I left Los Arcos and rolled along the countryside until my first bike climb of the day which went for a few KM, I got over with my legs telling me they need a few days rest which is not going to happen anytime soon. I passed a few villages and then into Logrono which is a modern city. Car dealerships and from the distance a pretty decent town. I caught the camino proper through town which was paved and nice. I checked in with the local tourist info station and got my stamp. I rolled through town and back onto the parallel trail until I reached a stopping point. The road was under construction and traffic was being pushed to the interstate highway which I cant do so I picked an alternate route about 8km around the city and passed through some great wine country. Pear trees, olive trees, wild flower fields and vineyards. Lots of rolling hills that seem to go up more than down but still good.
I eventually worked my direction back towards Navarette which is on the route but took a stop in Sotes for a drink. Actually had lunch and a glass of red wine. Grand reserve which was really nice and cost 2 euros. It was great. Once rolling again my legs were not happy. I stopped about an hour later at the next village to get a drink and rest. I met 2 nice men riding from Seville Spain to the Netherlands. One was from Minnesota(name slips me I didn’t write it down like I was supposed to but want to say Mark) and the other from the Netherlands (Karel). Super nice guys and we chatted about bikes and rides and the riding in the south. It was an absolute pleasure. A fantastic break.
Once back on the road I felt a lot better and kept rolling to my destination for the evening which is Santo Domingo della calzatta. The old city is very aged and looking a bit rundown but has a great feel. The area feels a bit depressed with a lot of closed businesses but the newer city looks to be healthy and growing. I got a room at the Local convent hostale which is very nice but I feel out of place with the nuns walking around. They are incredibly nice and have a very nice clean facility. Most places here don’t have AC so I wish I was cooler but nights tend to be cool here so I will open the windows.
Dinner was Paella on the pilgrims menu and an ice cream bar. I also had a needed Estrella beer. Long day so it was deserved.
A few notes on the day: wine fields everywhere, no more cow pastures and sometimes I hear sheep but can not see them, I think they are on the long hill ridges which go up several hundred feet. I am still in a lot of hills and my climbing was over 3500 feet today. Tommorow I have 2800 feet in the first 30 miles then it seems to go into a plateau’d like valley for the next 145 km which hopefully will be nice as I need some hill relief.
Cheating. Yes I decided to cheat tomorrow. I have 120km to do so I found a service that hauls bags. Its not cheap to be honest but if I can take 40lb off the bike then I believe I can make my distance in a lot less time with a lot less stress on the body. Heat has been pretty rough the past 2 days. I have lathered up on sunscreen and I am still totally burned. I have a nice farmers tan and good set of racoon eyes.
I met a man named Ted from Nashville today and his friend Harry from Texas who is retired from the army (texas by way of Puerto rico), 24 years of service, pretty awesome. Great to see americans out on the trail.